This document contains Pauline Marx's past gardening columns from January 2002 to June 2005. =========================================================================== January 2002 Calendar of Seasons February 2002 Pruning our Plants March 2002 Landscape Watering April 2002 Cactus in the Landscape May 2002 Agave, Yucca and Ocotillo June 2002 Foothills Palo Verde July 2002 Drought Conditions August 2002 Drought Conditions (Part 2) September 2002 Balance is Everything October 2002 Cool-Season Vegetables November 2002 Blooming Season and Pruning Suggestions December 2002 Holiday Season Plants January 2003 Winter Yard Care February 2003 Regional Differences March 2003 Frost in Phoenix! April 2003 National Garden Month May 2003 Spring Desert Plants June 2003 Bird of Paradise July 2003 Summer Watering August 2003 Summer Pruning and Planting September 2003 Irrigation System October 2003 Fall Planting November 2003 Cool Stuff December 2003 Frost Bite January 2004 Winter Yard Care February 2004 More Winter Information March 2004 Frost Damage April 2004 Spring in the Desert May 2004 Water Requirements June 2004 Quail On the Run July 2004 Burrowing Animals August 2004 Beneficial Insects September 2004 Preventing Mosquitos October 2004 Seasonal Change Advice November 2004 Winter Weather Advice December 2004 More Winter Weather Advice January 2005 Planning Ahead February 2005 Winter Color March 2005 Spring To Do List April 2005 Caliche, Roses May 2005 Hot Weather Preparation June 2005 June Tips July 2005 Irrigation System August 2005 Balance September 2005 Preventing Mosquitos October 2005 Fall Planting November 2005 November Planting December 2005 Ushering in Winter =========================================================================== December 2005 Ushering in Winter December ushers in winter conditions like frost and rain as well as some planting opportunities. So, with this in mind, let's review some December garden chores. Rain When our winter rains appear, be sure to adjust your watering schedule for wet weather. This would mean resetting automatic timers to reduce watering frequency. Some specific watering recommendations are: Established desert-adapted trees every 30 to 60 days. Ground covers and vines every 21 to 45 days. Non-natives usually require more frequent watering. Trees, 14 to 40 days and 10 to 14 days for shrubs, ground covers and vines. Always apply the same amount of water; only the frequency changes with the seasons. Water should soak 3 feet deep for trees, 2 feet for shrubs, and 1 foot for smaller plants. Frost Native and desert adapted plants can handle the low desert temperature fluctuations. However, cold sensitive plants such as bougainvillea, hibiscus, natal plum, citrus, succulents, annual flowers and some vegetables may need frost protection. Pruning Now is a good time to start thinning, pruning and reshaping many of our desert trees such as mesquite, palo verde, acacia and other deciduous types. Tree sap has moved down to the root system making it the most desirable time to thin and prune. Take off touching branches that cross over each other and limbs that rub against structures and neighboring trees. Also, thin overall to decrease the tree's susceptibility to wind damage. It's a good time to prune Texas Sage, roses and other desert and deciduous shrubs. Refrain from pruning frost-sensitive plants such as bougainvilleas and hibiscus. Citrus Taste test navel and Arizona sweet oranges, mandarins, and tangelos to determine if they are ready for harvest. The longer the fruit stays on the tree, the sweeter it becomes. Grapefruits should be ready but generally improves in taste later in the winter. Pick exposed lemons and limes just before a hard freeze. Some damage to these fruits, especially the ones on the upper and outer portions of the tree, will occur when temperatures drop to 28 degrees. Other citrus fruit can tolerate colder temperatures. Planting Winter vegetables- While the rest of the nation is dealing with snow, we can plant a winter vegetable crop of lettuces (from basic to exotic), numerous Oriental vegetables, onions, radishes, spinach, garlic, cauliflower, cabbage, broccoli, peas, turnips, Swiss chard, beets and kohlrabis (turnip cabbage). For easy germination of winter vegetables, use a white geo-textile frost blanket available at local nurseries. Once the seedlings have sprouted and are an inch high, remove the blanket. Frost is a potential problem for some, so cover them as needed. To stimulate fast growth, use a slow release, balanced winter vegetable fertilizer such as 20-10-10. Drip irrigation works well with winter vegetables. Plant winter vegetables at recommended spaces so there is plenty of sunlight for the plants to develop properly. Space rows about 3 feet apart and plants in the row one foot apart. Stock- This is a fragrant annual flower that will permeate the air with a clove like scent. Single or double flowers, some in shades of pink, blue, lavender, red or white. Plant it out of doors in a rich organic planting medium. It likes consistent soil moisture, so apply a generous layer of mulch to keep the soil moderately moist. Stock declines quickly as temperatures rise but, if you plant them now, you can enjoy them all winter, It is an excellent cut flower, spreading its fragrance indoors as if spice cookies were baking in the oven. November 2005 November Planting November is a good time to make preparations to brighten your garden for the winter and spring. To get a head start, you might want to pay particular attention to some plants that will provide both color and contrast. Let's start with a few that may be already established in your garden. Bougainvilleas - These are nice plants but occasionally they refuse to bloom. They actually do better with little care and lots of pruning. However, pruning is best done in the early spring after all danger of frost passes. Remove dead branches and keep its height in check. It will quickly recover. Bougainvilleas like well-drained soil and full sun. They do not bloom well in partial shade. It is best to plant them in the spring. You can feed them lightly but do so in the spring and summer. If you over fertilize, the plant will bloom sparsely or not at all. Roses - Prune and feed. Remove faded flowers, pruning lightly as you go. Take out dead, diseased crossings and injured canes as well as prune for shape. Then apply complete fertilizer (a fertilizer that can provide all the three main elements: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium), watering it in well to encourage a flush of winter flowers. Aloe - There are several species to choose from such as Aloe vera and African aloe which are native to South Africa. They provide some of our best winter and early spring color ranging from small clumping groundcovers to treelike accents. Hummingbirds are attracted to their yellow, orange or red tubular flowers. Aloes prefer filtered shade but can acclimate to sunnier positions. They will thrive under a canopy of desert trees such as mesquite and palo verde. Most aloes begin to suffer frost damage when the temperatures fall below 25 degrees. Here are a few other suggestions for winter color. Bulbine frutescens (Bulbine) - It forms small clumps to 18 inches tall by 2 to 3 feet across with fleshy bright-green leaves that look good all year around. Its flowers are a tall spike of small yellow blossoms. Dalea pulchra (Indigo bush) - This evergreen shrub has an open, rounded growth form to 5 feet tall and wide. Its delicate silver foliage provides a striking contrast to the masses of violet flowers produced in winter and early spring. Indigo bush is quite susceptible to over watering, so plant it in well drained soil and be careful to not kill it with kindness. The nectar-rich blossoms attract bees and butterflies. Dalea fructescens (Black dalea) - This shrub blooms in late fall with masses of bright purple flowers. It is evergreen and forms a rounded mound of gray-green foliage to 4 feet tall by 5 feet wide. As with Dalea pulchra it needs full sun and is very tolerant of reflected heat. The bees cover this shrub during the bloom season. Eremophilia decepiens (Emu bush) - Blooming on this shrub begins in January and is in full swing by Valentine's Day. The masses of tubular red flowers are truly spectacular. For the rest of the year, this evergreen shrub provides nice deep green foliage and a dense rounded form. Plant in full sun and allow it plenty of room as it can quickly grow to 4 feet tall by 5 feet wide. It is cold hardy to the mid-20s. Hymenoxys acaulis (Angelita daisy) - This is one of the best perennials to plant for year round color. Although blooming slows down in winter months, it can still be counted on to provide a splash of sunny yellow in the garden. Its slender bright-green leaves can still be counted on to provide a splash of sunny yellow in the garden. Opuntia violaceae santa rita (Santa Rita prickley pear)- This is the cactus with the rich purple pads the provide lots of winter color. It has a yellow bloom that appears in late spring. October 2005 Statistics for the Month Rainfall- The average rainfall for the month of October in the low desert is 0.7 inches. The record was 4.4 inches in 1972. Temperature- The average high temperature in October is 88.1 degrees, the lowest high 56 degrees in 1959 and the record high 107 degrees in 1980. The average low temperature is 60.8 degrees with the highest low recorded in 1987 at 82 degrees and the record low 34 degrees in 1900 and 1911. Fall Planting Fall planting begins in earnest this month so let's review wildflowers and shrubs. Wildflowers Many of us are fascinated with growing wildflowers. Although the term is loosely applied to a wide range of plants, most people think of a wildflower planting as an exuberant mix of native plants both annual and perennial. Begin by preparing a bed for your wildflowers by raking the soil gently in one direction to break up the surface. Add a thin layer (one inch or less) of compost or composted manure and continue to rake in opposite directions to work it into the soil. Water the area well, checking to be sure that it drains well and that there are no low spots where the water could pool. Add organic matter carefully as soil that is too rich encourages tremendous leaf growth, often at the sacrifice of flowering. Shrubs You can plant all but frost-tender woody shrubs. Plant shrubs the same way that you plant trees with a hole that is three to five times as wide as the container and just as deep. Most soil amendments, including mulch are unnecessary. If you choose to use mulch or compost in the hole, scratch it in well and roughen the sides of the hole to encourage plant roots to move out into the surrounding soil. Now is also a good time to plant flowering bulbs such as alliums, anemone, butterfly iris, cape tulip, daffodils, Dutch iris, and ranunculus. Do not fertilize native wildflowers or other annuals this month. You can apply fertilizer to plants growing in containers beginning two weeks after they are planted. This should be plenty of time for the root systems to be able to take up nutrients. Another sign that container-grown plants are ready to accept fertilizer is when they begin to show signs of active growth. Citrus Do not prune citrus this month except to take suckers off from below the graft. These shoots grow fast and should be removed whenever they appear. Many growers recommend pulling them off rather than cutting them. It is thought that the action of pulling them off kills the tissue below the branch collar of the stem and discourages the plant from making a new stem. Insects It is always important to correctly identify insects that you suspect have caused damage to your plants. Take a few of the insects and also some plant material to your County Extension Service office or a reputable nursery for identification. Small, regular semi-circular, and oval holes cut into the edge of rose foliage are the work of female leafcutter bees. A little smaller than the honey bee, she uses leaf cuttings to make cells for her eggs. First she finds a hole about the diameter of her body in the ground or a thick stem or rotting wood. Then she gathers pieces of leaves. Shapes them into a thimble-like cone, and places it in the hole. Next she puts pollen and nectar in the hole, lays an egg, and closes the top with another piece of leaf. Young bees stay in the cells and emerge the following season. Pesticides are ineffective on leafcutters and their damage is purely cosmetic. Plus, leafcutters are valuable pollinators. September 2005 Prevent Mosquitoes From Breeding Empty buckets, cans, and other receptacles to prevent water from collecting. Cover wading pools but take care to drain water that may collect on pool covers. Change water in bird baths every three or four days. Keep roof gutters clear and draining properly. Report standing water to your local health department. Clean and chlorinate swimming pools, outdoor saunas, and hot tubs. When they are not in use, keep pools empty and covered' or buy a "mosquito dunk" from a garden center or Home Depot and put it in the water to kill the mosquito larvae. Staking Young Trees Plant any tree that is not frost-tender this month. Most desert species establish best when planted in the fall; although it may still be hot, temperatures will soon moderate and trees will have ample time to begin setting a solid root system. Trees are sensitive to damage to their bark. Protect trees that are in the path of mowers and other equipment with plastic tree guards. Do not use string trimmers near trees. It is much safer for the tree to trim by hand near the bark. Staking is not required for every tree. Sturdy trees with thick trunks or multi trunks do not require staking because they have good wind resistance. Spindly fast growers like eucalyptus and mesquite, though, are prime candidates for stakes. If the tree came with a stake, do not use it. Container stakes are not meant to be in-ground stakes. You'll need at least two, possibly three proper stakes , 4- to 6-feet tall. Wood is okay; metal is better. Hammer the stakes into the ground outside the planting hole. The stakes should be placed on opposite sides of the tree if you're using two stakes. If three are being used, place them in a triangle. Most arborists recommend attaching a flexible loop of plastic tree tie or cord. A wire or soft rope could be used as long as the part that wraps around the trunk is padded. Try an old garden hose. The ties should be tight enough to hold the tree upright but must be loose enough so that the trunk is not rigid. The young trunk needs to move in the wind for sturdy wood growth. The ties should be secured at the same point on the tree. If using just two stakes, some specialists suggest attaching a firm brace between the stakes near the bottom. The brace is intended to prevent the stakes from loosening. Stakes should be taken off most trees after they have developed 4- to 5-inch wide trunks. Be sure to check all of the trees on your property after a monsoon wind blows through. Most can be up righted immediately and continue to put down new roots and survive nicely. Plant Annuals Now Annuals can be planted now for some winter color in your courtyard or on your patio. Planting them close enough to fill in all the spaces will give the area a lush array of color. Do not be afraid to plant generously and let all the colors blend together on their own. Use annual vines like canary creeper, morning glory, or sweet peas to give height and dimension to the space. Sweet peas will also add their lovely fragrance to the area. Mix annuals of varying sizes to add interest. Tall species like poppies and coreopsis can form a backdrop for the smaller species like California poppies, clarkia, or allysum. A wide range of color and size will give the small space dimension, making it appear larger. The diversity keeps your eye moving around and adds to the illusion of spaciousness. While the weather is still warm, water newly planted annuals daily until they begin to show new growth, then water to a depth of 6 to 8 inches every three to four days, depending on the soil and temperature. Continue to water container-grown plants often while the temperature is high. Check that the pot is dry an inch below the surface before you water. This is approximately the length of your finger to the first knuckle. Editors Note: Reprinted from the September 2004 Bellasera Neighborhood News August 2005 Balance Balance is everything in the garden and, to achieve it, consider the following: Eliminating all pests is unrealistic. If there were no aphids, lady bugs would starve. If we didn't share the leaves of our plants with caterpillars, we would not experience the joy of watching butterflies. If there were no fungi or bacteria, nothing would break down to recycle back into the environment. Everything has its place and purpose. Select plants that are resistant to known pests, and keep them healthy because stressed plants are more vulnerable to pest problems. Tolerate a little "damage" and marvel at the many tiny and grand "battles" of nature keeping your yard in balance. Coping With August Heat Plants To help your plants through our August heat, you should consider the following: Increase water application as the weather warms and pay attention to the irrigation needs of plants. Apply mulch to the ground around the base of heat sensitive plants to keep the roots cooler and prevent evaporation. Be sure to keep the mulch several inches away from the trunk. Cut off spent blooms to stimulate bloom. Toward the end of August and into September, add an iron supplement if roses show yellowing from iron deficiency. Try not to sprinkle water on plant foliage. It can spread fungal diseases and leaves behind salts when it dries. Most landscape plants will have an easier transition if they are planted in September or October, when temperatures have cooled....it's easier on the gardener too! Citrus Citrus trees require deep watering twice a week when the weather is over 100 degrees for several days. Water them by letting the hose run slowly until a stick poked into the soil goes easily down 2 to 3 feet. When the weather cools a bit, you can cut back to once a week. You might want to consider a soaker hose. Inappropriate water management leads to sunburn or tough rind that is unable to expand as fruit matures on citrus trees. There is nothing to be done for this season, monitor irrigation carefully next summer. Lawns If your lawn is looking a bit pale, as often happens this time of the year, iron deficiency is the cause. Bermuda grass needs an extra bump in nutrition. Adding a light application of iron, not exceeding one-half pound per 1,000 square feet, will cure it. Adding extra nitrogen fertilizer will temporarily make the lawn green, but only masks the real problem. Additionally, the nitrogen will cause a flush of growth. If the grass needs lots of vigor to repair damage from dogs digging or kids playing, then the extra nitrogen is needed. Most lawns do fine with normal nitrogen and extra iron. Did You Know? For The Month of August: The average rainfall is 1.0 inches. The record is 5.4 inches in 1951. The average high is 103.7 degrees. The lowest high was 73 degrees in 1951 (same year as the record rainfall). The record high is 116 degrees in both 1972 and 1975. The average low is 79.2 degrees. The highest low was 92 degrees in 1995. The record low was 58 degrees in 1917. July 2005 Irrigation System Have you checked your irrigation system lately? You can water effectively and efficiently while saving a lot of water and money by inspecting the following key elements of your system. Controller Most of us have an automatic timer /irrigation controller. You need to periodically check and ensure that the controller program is correctly programmed. Instructions are usually on the inside of the panel. Most systems have a battery (9 volt) that safeguards against losing the program info. If not, it will definitely need to be reprogrammed after a power outage. Replace the battery yearly. Leaks Check for leaks throughout the entire system. Look for standing water, soggy ground, and eroded soil. Replace missing or broken sprinklers, bubbler heads, or drip emitters. Drip Emitters Move emitters out to the drip line as plants grow (the drip line is the outermost area where water will drip after a rain) or increase basin sizes for bubblers. Sprinkler Heads For those of you with grass, set sprinkler heads at the proper height to prevent them from becoming blocked or submerged by grass and other surrounding plants. They should be parallel with the soil surface, not tilted. Be sure your system is watering only the area intended, with no runoff on walks. If you have a sloped yard and have water runoff, then split the watering schedule. Water half at the calculated time and repeat after one hour. Insects To control aphids, mealybugs, mites, scales, and a host of other insects, use a Summer oil which is the lightweight of horticultural oils. It's classified as a suffocant because the emulsion readily breaks forming an oil coat on the insect and smothers them. It can be used all year round even in warm temperatures and it is not toxic to mammals. Best time to apply it is in the early morning before the sun is shining on the plants. Scale Insects Scale insects appear to be a white cottony substance which may spread across prickly pear and cholla cacti. It is a secretion from a tiny scale insect, barely visible among the fluff. Scale colonies spread over time and, if left unchecked, the entire cactus becomes enveloped in white and eventually dies. The white matter acts as a protective coating for the insects, rendering pesticides ineffective. The best control method is to hose off the cactus with a strong blast of water. You will probably need to do this regularly as it is difficult to eliminate the scale from all the nooks and crannies once it takes up residence. The red dye that the insect makes has been used for dye in the past and the water will run red when you spray it off so be sure not to wear white gardening shoes or you may end up with pink gardening shoes....which is okay fro the ladies but probably will distress the gentlemen! Bermuda Grass You still have several weeks to perform maintenance chores on Bermuda grass. Summer is the time to plant, fertilize and dethatch lawns. Bermuda begins to go dormant as the days shorten and the temperature drops in the fall Roses Roses should be somewhat dormant by now. They still require deep watering, as often as every other day. They also like a blast of water in the morning to boost humidity and knock off spider mites. No fertilization is necessary for now. Monsoon July is usually the start of monsoon season with thunderstorms, increased humidity and blowing dust. It can be a demanding month for plants so monitor their watering needs carefully. If thunderstorms bring adequate rain you may be able to turn off your irrigation for a few days...just remember to turn it on again when the ground dries a little. Iron Chlorosis Overwatering combined with heavy summer rains can promote root rot, fungal diseases, and also iron chlorosis which is recognizable by new leaves that are yellow while their veins remain green. Iron chlorosis occurs when plants are unable to utilize existing iron in the soil because the soil it too wet or has a high pH (alkalinity). Plant roots need oxygen in order to absorb iron from the soil. If you are using correct irrigation methods and symptoms continue, apply iron chelates or ferrous sulfate to the soil. Both are readily absorbed by the roots of plants. June 2005 Vegetables-Growing and Picking The fun of growing vegetables is in the eating, but it is sometimes difficult to tell just when they are ready. Here are some tips. -Pick cantaloupe when the skin is well netted and the fruit slips from the vine with little pressure. -Use eggplant once the skin is firm, dark, and shiny and the fruit is no longer growing. Oriental type eggplants can be harvested any time after they are 3 inches long, and they keep longer on the plant without becoming bitter than do other varieties. -Most peppers are sweeter after they turn color, but pick them when they are full sized and the skin is firm and shiny. -New potatoes should be pulled just after plants flower. If you want fullsize tubers wait to harvest until the tops start to die. -Watermelon is ready when the fruit has quit becoming larger, it feels heavy for its size, and the tendrils closest to the fruit begin to turn brown. Ripe watermelons often have yellow spots on the underside. -Cucumbers and summer squash are best when they are small. Pick while the flower is still attached or when the fruit is less then 4 inches long. -Tomatoes that are shaded will continue to ripen fruit, but most do not set new fruit because of high temperatures. Watering Trees Water established desert trees monthly, although many desert species like velvet mesquite, palo verde, and ironwood can live on natural rainfall once they are fully mature. Water deciduous trees deeply this month. Water newly planted or young trees weekly during the summer. Roses Cut back on fertilizing established roses to encourage plants to slow down for the hot summer. Water them deeply as the temperature climbs and hose them early in the morning to increase humidity and control spider mites and aphids. Did you receive a miniature rosebush as a gift recently? They can be planted successfully outdoors here. The best spot for them is in a container rather than the ground. They need at least six hours of sunlight a day. Keep them moist but not soggy. Trim off the blossoms once they fade the same as you would trim hybrid tea roses and they will continue to bloom until early winter. If their requirements are met they will continue to grow for many years. Spider Mites and Ants Spider mites are difficult to see with the naked eye but their damage is apparent with webs and tiny yellow spots called "stippling" on the foliage. Severe cases may have distorted leaves. Spray them off plants with a forceful blast of water in the morning before the sun heats up, and not in the late afternoon or evening, which can create a fungal problem. On the other hand, even though they are most annoying when they nibble on your ankles as you garden, ants can be looked upon as "the earthworms of the desert". They play an important role in improving soil structure. Their activities include soil movement, aeration and nutrient cycling. The species that gather seeds also foster distribution of native plants. Ants also kill and eat a significant number of insects, including flea and fly larvae. Some species of ants prey exclusively on other ants. Iron Deficiency Iron deficiency causes plants to develop chlorosis, which is typified by yellow leaves with contrasting green veins. Apply a chelated iron product to the soil around the root zone, following the package instructions May 2005 Hot Weather Preparation It is necessary to start caring for your existing cacti, succulents (any fleshy plant that belongs to one of many diverse families among them species of cactus, aloe, agave, and yucca) and other Desert perennials this month in order to keep them looking good throughout the summer. Also, remember that you can continue to plant succulents through the summer. Watering Schedules Water large cacti, ocotillos, and yuccas once a month from now until September. Water agaves, small yuccas, prickley pear, and smaller cacti every three weeks during the summer. Barrel and beavertail (smaller prickley pear) cactus do not need as much water as most other succulents but watering every five to six weeks in the summer maintains their vigor. Aloes Aloes, especially those that form extensive colonies, can be overgrown if not kept divided regularly. Divide them by cutting out plants along the edge until you have reduced the size of the clump at least by half. Cutting out more than a half should not kill the plant. Protect New Plants Newly planted succulents regardless of size or type may need to be shaded to prevent sunburn. If a nearby tree, shrub, or building does not provide enough shade to prevent sunburn, drape shade cloth with at least 30% coverage on a frame over the plant. When you buy cacti, notice which side of the pot is facing south in the nursery. Mark that side. When you replant be sure it is oriented to the sun the same way. This helps prevent sunburn. Pruning Cacti may be pruned any time it is hot. Remove any damaged or diseased stems as soon as you can to prevent further infection. Always use a sharp saw or tool so that you have a clean cut. Cut at a joint wherever possible. For multi-stemmed cactus like organ pipe or senita, cut the stem as far back to the base as possible. Dust any cut with sulphur to help prevent infection. Water Stress Cacti can become water stressed. Signs of water stress are: -skin that is soft to the touch and offers resistance to gentle pressure. -yellowing or paleness of the skin, especially on the south or western side. -shriveling or shrinking of the skin. -shrinking distance between the ribs of columnar cactus (if you can't get your finger between the ribs the plant is desperate for water). -wilting, drooping, or falling pads on prickley pears. Because cacti have large reservoirs of moisture in the stems, these signs show up only when the plant is deeply stressed. Water frequently enough to avoid these symptoms, but if they appear, water deeply immediately, and adjust watering schedule. Planting in the Shade You can grow shade loving plants in the high filtered shade provided by mesquites, and palo verdes. However, the shade of deciduous trees, tall fences, and buildings, or north facing areas can be a big problem. For areas that have this kind of shade, look for plants that either bloom well in the shade or have colorful leaf patterns. Some good perennials for the shade include the following: -Coleus (a perennial in frost-free areas, otherwise an annual) -Cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) -Japanese boxwood -Heavenly bamboo -Philodendron -Sago palm -Spider plant April 2005 Caliche, Roses Spring planting is the most desirable time for planting everything from annuals, vegetables and herbs to low-water-use desert plants, citrus and tropicals. Basic to your spring planting is the soil in which your plants will grow. There are many pockets of caliche here in the Valley and probably several in your yard. If you have severe soil conditions, evidenced by rock-hard ground, low productivity and chloric or yellow looking plants it's a good idea to start with a soil test. This will give you data and recommendations as to the amount and type of soil amendments (any of a class of materials which are used to adjust the soil for increased fertility) needed for optimal production. Contact your favorite garden center for advice on a soil test as the Maricopa County Cooperative Extension service no longer provides this service Caliche What is it and how do we deal with it? Caliche is a soil condition commonly found in the Valley. It is a deposit of calcium carbonate (lime) that lies at or below the soil surface. This is an indirect product of drought and looks like and can be as impenetrable as concrete. A thin layer of soil may conceal it but roots cannot penetrate the hard layer and water cannot drain through it. If the caliche layer is thin, you probably can break through it with a shovel before planting. Improve/Amend Soil In order to improve the soil, dig up the area to a depth of 18 inches and thoroughly mix in organic matter. It is easier to dig in our soil if you moisten it a few days before digging. Once the hole is dug, fill it with water as this will accomplish two things. It creates a moist environment in which to plant and points out any drainage problems. If the water hasn't soaked in after 2 hours, bail it out and dig deeper to check for caliche. Caliche can occur in layers from an inch to several feet thick and may be on or below the surface. If the caliche layer is too thick to break through, the best course of action is to select another site, or go ahead and plant realizing that you will have to be very careful not to over water and that large plants placed here may be stunted. Only the worst soils or the most delicate plants benefit from amending the soil. In such cases use about 25 percent organic matter by volume. Planting in a raised bed to which you have added good soil is another solution. Roses Roses in particular will benefit from soil amended with a soil acidifier, such as Disper-sul or First Step, to achieve a pH between 6.5 and 7.0. They always benefit from the addition of organic matter in the form of nitrified mulch. Roses are tremendous bloomers and therefore need to be fed frequently for extended bloom activity. I have 9 roses in a raised bed and use Jackson and Perkins ONCE following the label directions. My roses reward me with many blooms on healthy plants. Water deeply once a week to leach salts from the root zone. Keep the ground surface mulched to keep the soil cooler. If aphids, whiteflies, or thrips threaten your roses, use a systemic insecticide or Greenlight Rose Defense with Neem oil. Neem oil is a safe, organic insecticide that works well on numerous ornamentals. Aphids can be washed off daily with a strong stream of water. Fruit/Citrus Trees Remember to fertilize your citrus trees with both major and minor nutrients, using a balanced citrus food to ensure tree development. If you have deciduous fruit trees remember to thin them so that you have one fruit for every 8 to 12 inches on the branch. Thinning prevents over crowding and results in larger better quality fruit. Focal Points in Your Garden Try creating a focal point in your garden if you want to transform an ordinary garden into an unforgettable one. Make a visual statement that draws the eye. Plants of contrasting colors and differing heights, sculptural cacti, climbing vines, ornamental plants and unusual vegetation will accentuate a space. Other elements that can illuminate a garden area are an arbor, bird bath, birdhouse, fountain, gazebo, glass globe on a pedestal, grouping of potted plants, hammock, hanging baskets, potting bench, raised planting beds, statue, sundial, topiary, or urn. March 2005 Spring To Do List We should have a beautiful spring show of wildflowers since we had plenty of winter rain. You might plan several hikes or leisurely drives during this month and next month to appreciate the wildflower gardens that occur naturally. Sunset magazine has several hikes listed in the March issue. Nurseries will be very busy this month so get there early for the best selection of warm season transplants. Unless you need a quick lift right away or a few last minute plants to fill in gaps for a special event, it is better to buy only warm-season annuals now. Many cool season annuals will still be for sale, but think carefully before you buy them this late in the season. Most of them are at the end of their allotted life span and wont grow much more that what you see now in the pot. Avoid planting the same vegetables and annuals in the same place year after year. This practice allows disease and pest populations to increase. Instead, switch them into different areas. Prepare garden soil for warm season crops by adding compost, fertilizer, and soil sulfur. To Do List Turf: Avoid over watering and dont mow when grass is wet to prevent the spread of fungal problems in winter lawns. Winter lawns may require water once or twice per week depending on the weather. Vegetables: Prepare garden soil for spring planting. Plant seeds of: Beans (lima and snap), beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, jicama, melons (cantaloupe, muskmelon, watermelon), okra, green onions, peanuts, pumpkins, radishes, squash and sunflowers. Plant transplants of: Artichokes (globe and Jerusalem), eggplant, peppers and tomatoes. Roses: Continue fertilizing established roses with granular fertilizers once every six weeks. Remember to water the day before application and the day after. Fruit and Nut Trees: Fertilize deciduous fruit trees with nitrogen when they leaf out. Thin deciduous fruit to 6-inch spacing. The earlier this is done after fruit set, the more size response will be expected in fruit remaining on the tree. Prune frost sensitive citrus until mid-March, after they begin to leaf out with new spring growth. Wait until all chance of frost has passed but allow time for re-growth to shade exposed bark, protecting it from sun scald as the days get longer and hotter. Plant Citrus Trees - Young two- to five-year-old trees transplant most successfully. Larger, older trees are more costly, harder to transplant without injury (to yourself and the tree), and suffer more from transplant shock. It will generally be three years after transplant before fruit production and that is the same whether you plant a two-year-old tree or a 10 year-old-tree. Landscape Plants: Water at least once a month unless rains provide adequate moisture. Control weeds while they are young, tender, and their roots are manageable, or before they sprout. Be sure to remove before they set seed. Remove London Rocket and other weeds in the mustard family now to prevent large populations of False Chinch bugs in April. Pre-emergent herbicides containing Pendimethalin or Isoxaben can be used to control prostrate spurge and other weeds. Prune frost sensitive plants, such as bougainvillea, after they begin to leaf out with new spring growth. Apply mulch around the base of plants to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. If you have previously had a problem with agave weevils, apply a pesticide labeled for use on agave weevil grubs around the base of the plants. Repeat application in June. Flowers: Plant bee balm (Monarda sp.), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), celosia (Celosia sp.), cosmos (Cosmos sp.), desert marigold (Baileyea multiradiata), English daisy (Bellis perennis), gilia (Gilia sp.), firewheel/indian blanket (Gaillardia), hollyhock (Alcea sp.), marigold (Tagetes sp.), Mexican hat (Ratibida columnifera), Mexican sunflower (Tithonia rotundifolia), portulaca (Portulaca sp.), primrose (Primula sp.), safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), sage (Salvia sp.), snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus), sunflower (Helianthus sp.), sweet pea (Lathyrus sp.), verbena (Verbena sp.), wild hyssop (Agastache sp.) and zinnia (Zinnia sp.). Herbs: Plant anise, basil, bay, caraway, catnip, chamomile, chives, curry, epazote, fennel, feverfew, French tarragon, garlic chives, germander, horehound, hyssop, lavender, lemon balm, lemon grass, lemon verbena, marjoram, mint, oregano, parsley, rue, safflower, sage, salad burnet, santolina, savory (summer and winter), scented geraniums, tansy, thyme and yarrow. February 2005 Winter Color Looking for some color in your winter garden? Here is a list of winter-flowering shrubs for our area: Desert senna - attractive light-green foliage, darkyellow flowers in a rather tidy bush. Not as aggressive about reseeding as the closely related feathery cassia. Knife leaf acacia - interesting wavy, gray-green foliage and yellow puffball flowers along the stem.. Wolfberry - native shrub with complex branching that has a profuse bloom of lavender, purple, or white flowers, depending on the species, in the winter. Excellent hummingbird plant. Leather leaf senna - long, flat, gray to whitish phyllodes (leaf-like structures) frame the creamy yellow flowers. Red fairyduster - brilliant red puff-balls coat this desert legume. Extremely heat- and drought-tolerant. Attractive to hummingbirds. Baja senna - uncommon shrub with dusky evergreen foliage with a purple blush and open bright yellow flowers in the winter. Extremely heat-and drought-tolerant. Notable acacia - a large loosely branched shrub with reddish-stem, dark-green leaf-like structures surround the golden flowers along the stem. Handsome accent choice for accent or specimen plant. Shrubby alfalfa - brilliant green foliage and bright yellow flowers all winter from this Mediterranean relative of the forage crop alfalfa. Extremely heat-and drought-tolerant but deciduous. Emu bush - most members of this large group bloom in winter or early spring. The selections Valentine and Rosea bloom particularly early. The red to pink (occasionally yellow) flowers of all species are crowded along the stem. Shrub Planting Time After mid-month, begin to plant cold-tender shrubs as you do for trees by digging a hole three to five times the diameter of the container and only as deep. Do not add soil amendments or other additives to the backfill. If there is clay in your soil, scratch the inside and bottom of the hole to break it up before planting. Set the plant in the hole, backfill and gently press the soil to remove air pockets and firm the plant in place. For large shrubs, water with a basin as for trees, and provide a 1 to 2 inch layer of mulch after planting, water well. Do not fertilize shrubs this month. Minimize pruning. Each cut is a wound to the plant, opening it up to insect and disease problems. Have a purpose and an end result in mind before you make the first cut. Never remove more than a third of the total plant (this is true for turf as well). Always use sharp, sterile, quality pruning tools and disinfect them between cuts to prevent the spread of disease. Pruning is an art as well as a science. How much you cut off and where you choose to make the cuts will affect both the health and the beauty of the tree. This is the time of year to apply pre-emergent herbicides to control spring and summer weeds. Good brands of pre-emergents are Award, Barricade, and Amaze. January 2005 Planning Ahead January is a good month to settle down in the house with those nursery catalogs and look for new or interesting annuals to grow.. Look for plants that are rated for Zone 8 or higher, have a tropical or subtropical origin, or are considered by the catalog to be particularly heat- or drought-tolerant. Don't Be Misled Most mail order catalogs focus on areas well outside our desert region, and terms heat-tolerant or "grows in full sun" is often misleading for us here in the desert. Most spring-flowering annuals do well during our long cool winter growing season, but it can take some experimentation to find those that work well through the warm spring and summer in our zone. Plant your experiments in containers and not in the ground for a nice color display. Aloes are native to Africa and Madagascar but grow well here in the desert. Most species bloom in the winter here. The flowers of aloes are held in upright stalks, either branched like a large candelabra or in a spike. Aloes re-bloom every year. (Agaves, though, die after blooming. By then the plant usually has produced several pups and they will take over the space.) Flowers are found in shades of red, pink, apricot, orange, and yellow. Hummingbirds find them irresistible. A generous number of aloes in the garden helps provide year-round food for these birds. There are many varieties of aloes; some are very small and can be used to fill small spaces in the dry garden or facing north. Spreading species make vigorous groundcovers for dry shady sites. There is also a vining aloe which climbs trees limbs or makes a good groundcover. There are some species that grow a large stem and are tall enough to be an arresting sight in the garden. Some of the most commonly available of the tree aloes are Aloe ferox, with its huge head of leaves and brilliant red flowers. We have one in our front garden and have named it Audrey after the plant in the movie "Little Shop of Horrors." Cactus and Succulents Water cactus and other warm season succulents every four to five weeks if we dont have any rain. If there is doubt about whether to water, do not. Succulents are built for drought and water storage, and overwatering is much more dangerous than light underwatering. The juicy tender leaves of many succulents are irresistible to birds and rabbits. To protect plants from birds, cover them with netting or other fine mesh. Only chicken wire cages will deter rabbits completely most of the rabbit repellants on the market are unreliable or erratically successful. The part of a cactus that is most vulnerable to freeze damage is the tip. To protect the tip, place a styrofoam cup over the end of the stem. Use a cup that is large enough to fit over the tip and can be removed without ripping off any spines. Light can penetrate the cup so the plant will still get some of the light needed, but it is best to remove the cups when the danger of frost is over. Some residents put "blankets" on plants to keep them warm during a cold spell which may save a plant from frost damage. The covers should be removed once the sun comes out. Even if plants experience severe cold damage, do not prune affected stems or leaves until the weather warms next month. The only exception is the flowering stalk on aloes which may be removed at any time. If you have plants such as bougainvillea and there is frost damage, leave the damaged leaves on the plant; they will protect other leaves from damage. That delightful bush which is blooming by the clubhouse on the right hand side as you go into the main door is Ericameria laricifolia or Turpentine Bush. It is an evergreen plant native to this area and blooms from August through December. The foliage smells like turpentine when crushed. The plant also contains a small amount of rubber. It is attractive to bees and other insects. December 2004 More Winter Weather Advice During the winter the thermometer will keep flirting with a hard freeze. A few colder areas will experience light freezes, but most of the valley remains frost free. The cold but not freezing nights are really a boon for frost-sensitive plants as those nights slow the metabolism of the plants and harden them against light frosts. The worst frost damage happens when a cold night comes out of the blue when the plants are still growing. The damage from a 28- or 29-degree frost when plants are actively growing is worse than when the same temperatures hit a dormant plant. If the temperature drops to the middle 20s or lower, then damage happens to even the most dormant frost-sensitive plant. Plants considered frost-sensitive include citrus, ficus, natal plum, hibiscus, bougainvillea, queen's wreath, lysiloma, and many exotic cactuses. Protecting these plants from the cold varies from plant to plant. Cover Them Up Cactuses' vulnerable points are the growing ends. Cover the ends of arms or tops of columns with cloth insulation. Thinner-armed ones can be protected with plastic cups seated on the tips. It may not look too stylish, but this will protect the tips of the plant. Shrubs can be covered easily with light blankets or frost cloths purchased from nurseries. When covering plants, the more complete the envelope the better. Covers work on the principle that the cloth holds in the heat absorbed during the day. Ideally they should be removed a few hours after sunrise to let the soil and branches warm in the sun, then recovered again at sundown. Removing the coverings too early is not a good idea. Normally the coldest hours are right around sunrise. Older citrus or ficus trees have dense canopies that act like a blanket to trap the warmth. Using strings of lights draped on the boughs offers little protection to the important tissues in the limbs and trunk. A more effective use of electricity is to place outdoor spotlights under the canopy, shining on the trunk and limbs. Warming the more massive tissues might sacrifice some foliage but does much more to protect the parts that will grow replacement leaves in the spring. Keep Watering Even though the weather is cool and many shrubs are dormant, continue to water every three weeks. Do not fertilize trees or shrubs this month. If you decide to get a cut Christmas tree, carefully select one which is not dropping needles. Then cut a bit off the bottom of the trunk as soon as you get it home and immediately plunge it into a bucket of water. Let the tree stand in the water overnight. Use a stand that will hold water and always have it filled while the tree is in the house. Keep the tree out of hot drafts, away from the fireplace and away from western windows to keep it from drying out too quickly. November 2004 Winter Weather Advice Continue to plant frost-hardy and native woody shrubs such as Apache Plume, jojoba, Texas Mountain Laurel, and Texas Ranger. If you have shrubs that need to be relocated, transplant them from now through January. Try to schedule transplanting to avoid the coldest of the cold weather. 1. Begin by digging the hole for the shrub. Make the hole wider than the root ball but just as deep. Do not add amendments or mulch but scratch the sides and bottom of the hole to rough it up. Fill the hole with water and let it drain completely before planting. 2. Remove the shrub, taking it out with as much soil as you can. If conditions are dry or the soil is light and subject to falling away from the root ball, water the shrub deeply before lifting it. This will help keep as much soil as possible around the root zone. 3. Place in the new hole and check to be sure the shrub is no deeper that it was in the original hole. Fill in with the backfill, firming it gently to remove air pockets and secure the shrub. Build a basin around the shrub and mulch heavily. Water well and keep well watered for the first two weeks after transplanting. 4. Water transplanted shrubs every week for a month, then every 8 to 10 days until they begin to grow in the spring. Do not prune any part of the transplanted shrub until it has begun to grow in the spring. And if it is a spring-blooming shrub, do not prune until the bloom period is over. Continue to plant cool-season succulents like aloes, gasteria and dudleya. Native succulents can be planted this month but be careful that they are not overwatered during the winter. Do not plant cold-tender succulents this month. Most insect pests and diseases are inactive during the coldest part of the year. Keep the areas around shrubs free of any diseased prunings or fruit to prevent future problems. Do not prune or fertilize and shrubs this month. If you desire spring color from bulbs, now is the time to prepare them. Buy Dutch iris, hyacinth and long-stemmed varieties of daffodils and tulips; chill the bulbs in the refrigerator for five to six weeks before planting. Sow seeds or set out plants of asparagus, beets, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, endive, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, mustard, parsley, peas, radishes, spinach, Swiss chard, and turnips. Late in the month Christmas cactus should be showing flower buds. Once buds are set and are about 1/2-inch long, gradually move the plant into more light over a week or two. Plants grow best in a spot that has bright, indirect light; that is cool and away from drafts and hot spots like a fireplace, heater vent, the top of a television or refrigerator or in a west-facing window. Sudden changes in temperature or light, or both, will cause the buds to fall off. Water Christmas cactus when the surface of the soil is dry. Fertilize Christmas cactus with a water soluble fertilizer, mixing a solution at a quarter of what is recommended for houseplants. Apply fertilizer every two weeks while the plant is blooming. October 2004 Seasonal Change Advice GROWTH RECOVERY of summer-weary plants can be expected with the cooling nighttime temperatures. PREMATURE LEAF DROP late in October is likely a result of the stresses of the summer. ORANGES AND TANGERINES CAN SPLIT during this season as they enlarge in size. Earlier damage from the sun on the rind makes the rind less supple and less resilient to stretching as the fruits gain size. MESOPHYLL COLLAPSE is a sudden wilt or drop of citrus leaves provoked by abrupt weather changes. Twig dieback and gumming often occur with this condition. ALTERNARIA ROT may be found in blossom ends of navel oranges and occasionally tangelos. No chemical control is available. FUNGUS DISEASE IN FREQUENTLY WATERED WINTER GRASS - Minimize watering frequency to slow succulent growth and promptly treat with recommended fungicides. This becomes worsened by periods of warm weather, causing even more soft, vulnerable growth. PLANT WINTER-HARDY TREES, SHRUBS AND VINES. The frost sensitive ones (citrus, bougainvilleas, etc.) can be risky after October. SOW WILDFLOWER SEED in October to have a spectacular show in late spring. Once tried, most people become addicted to the easy and natural color display. PLANT ANNUAL SPRING COLOR in mid-to-late October. The nurseries will be packed with glorious selections in every size, color, and shape. Spend time preparing the soil for the explosive growth of the plants. Everything you do "up front" will show the most rewards. It's hard to overcome a poor start with flowers and vegetables. CUT BACK WATERING FREQUENCIES. The shorter days mean cooling temperatures and slower plant growth; allow the soil to remain wetter longer. OVERSEED ESTABLISHED BERMUDA GRASS LAWNS from mid-October through mid-November for green grass (and mowing practice!) all winter. If your lawn has suffered from the late spring and hot summer heat, it's best not to overseed this year as that will not help it out. BERMUDA RESPONDS with a light fall application of potassium, no matter whether you overseed or not. We rarely recommend potassium for plants here, but potassium for Bermuda helps it "rest" better and then come out of dormancy with improved vigor. PLANT COOL SEASON VEGETABLES starting in October. The cool season vegetables are ones you eat the roots, stems, leaves or immature flowers. If planting these cool season vegetables is done and the days are still warm, you will find that sprinkling the seedbed with water will cool the soil more. Many of these seeds need cool temperatures to sprout. ONIONS PLANTED FOR BULBS should be sown in mid-October. Seeds or seedlings work the best. If you want the best scallions, plant the onion sets. These grow quickly into luscious green onions, but rarely perform as well as seeds or seedlings for the later bulbs. The Grand Canyon Sweet (TM) variety works best here. September 2004 Prevent Mosquitoes From Breeding * Empty buckets, cans, and other receptacles to prevent water from collecting. * Cover wading pools but take care to drain water that may collect on pool covers. * Change water in bird baths every three or four days. * Keep roof gutters clear and draining properly. * Report standing water to your local health department. * Clean and chlorinate swimming pools, outdoor saunas, and hot tubs. When they are not in use, keep pools empty and covered' or buy a "mosquito dunk" from a garden center or Home Depot and put it in the water to kill the mosquito larvae. Staking Young Trees Plant any tree that is not frost-tender this month. Most desert species establish best when planted in the fall; although it may still be hot, temperatures will soon moderate and trees will have ample time to begin setting a solid root system. Trees are sensitive to damage to their bark. Protect trees that are in the path of mowers and other equipment with plastic tree guards. Do not use string trimmers near trees. It is much safer for the tree to trim by hand near the bark. Staking is not required for every tree. Sturdy trees with thick trunks or multi trunks do not require staking because they have good wind resistance. Spindly fast growers like eucalyptus and mesquite, though, are prime candidates for stakes. 1. If the tree came with a stake, do not use it. Container stakes are not meant to be in-ground stakes. You'll need at least two, possibly three proper stakes , 4- to 6-feet tall. Wood is okay; metal is better. 2. Hammer the stakes into the ground outside the planting hole. The stakes should be placed on opposite sides of the tree if you're using two stakes. If three are being used, place them in a triangle. 3. Most arborists recommend attaching a flexible loop of plastic tree tie or cord. A wire or soft rope could be used as long as the part that wraps around the trunk is padded. Try an old garden hose. The ties should be tight enough to hold the tree upright but must be loose enough so that the trunk is not rigid. The young trunk needs to move in the wind for sturdy wood growth. The ties should be secured at the same point on the tree. 4. If using just two stakes, some specialists suggest attaching a firm brace between the stakes near the bottom. The brace is intended to prevent the stakes from loosening. Stakes should be taken off most trees after they have developed 4- to 5-inch wide trunks. Be sure to check all of the trees on your property after a monsoon wind blows through. Most can be uprighted immediately and continue to put down new roots and survive nicely. Plant Annuals Now Annuals can be planted now for some winter color in your courtyard or on your patio. Planting them close enough to fill in all the spaces will give the area a lush array of color. Do not be afraid to plant generously and let all the colors blend together on their own. Use annual vines like canary creeper, morning glory, or sweet peas to give height and dimension to the space. Sweet peas will also add their lovely fragrance to the area. Mix annuals of varying sizes to add interest. Tall species like poppies and coreopsis can form a backdrop for the smaller species like California poppies, clarkia, or allysum. A wide range of color and size will give the small space dimension, making it appear larger. The diversity keeps your eye moving around and adds to the illusion of spaciousness. While the weather is still warm, water newly planted annuals daily until they begin to show new growth, Then water to a depth of 6 to 8 inches every three to four days, depending on the soil and temperature. Continue to water container-grown plants often while the temperature is high. Check that the pot is dry an inch below the surface before you water. This is approximately the length of your finger to the first knuckle. August 2004 Beneficial Insects Many beneficial insects show up in the garden throughout the year. It is important to recognize these "good guys" and give them home in your garden. Some are voracious predators on much more destructive insects; while others are entirely benign with no impact on any of your garden plants. Some of the most common beneficial insects and a few other beneficial "critters" include the following: -Praying mantis are odd-shaped insects with large splayed legs and disproportionately large heads. They generally remain still, waiting for insect prey to move within range, and it takes a sharp eye to find them on a stalk. -Ladybugs are renowned for eating aphids. Releasing purchased ladybugs is extremely difficult and if not done at precisely the right time, they simply fly away. It is best to have a healthy place for them to live and wait for them to come around in their own time. -Lacewings are small, delicate creatures with finely webbed wings that give them their name. They are, however, terrific predators of aphids, spider mites and other hungry critter that feed on your plants. - Earthworms are not insects, but they are very helpful. They plow through the soil, eating it, and their tunnels create necessary air spaces while their excretions help increase soil nutrients. They do not live in soils that are too hot or too dry or those that are without organic matter. Purchased earthworms, also called red crawlers are sensitive to heat and rarely live over the summer months in the hottest areas like ours. -Almost any kind of spider is a helpful partner in the garden. Because the poisonous black widow lives in much of the area, many people think all spiders are a problem. It is just the opposite. Most spiders are fierce predators of other insects and can be a boon to the garden. Give plenty of room, and leave them undisturbed to spin those webs to trap marauding pests. -Ants are such admirable insects that it is hard to think badly of them until they sting you. Many are the garbage collectors of the area, taking in old leaves, dead bugs and other detritus and turning it into food for their young. It is sometimes tempting to think that ants are the problem with a plant because they are what you see, when most of the time the plant has begun to rot and die and the ants are attracted by the various other bugs and bacteria that are part of the decay. But ants often find themselves living right where you want to stand, sit or work in the flower bed. When ants become a problem, there are more benign ways to get rid of them than using dangerous chemicals. Cut up one or two oranges and put them into a blender. Add enough water to make a thick slurry. Take this concoction immediately to the ant hole and pour it on the top. Volatile oils from the rind swirl through the tunnels and chambers, killing the ants. Once the slurry has dried, remove it and put it on the compost pile. Air and Water Plants need oxygen as well as water; this is why allowing the soil to dry slightly between waterings is advisable. * Citrus trees tend to drop their leaves when they get new ones. These leaves may be left on the ground under the tree or incorporated with other plant materials as part of a compost pile which would provide an excellent mulch for other areas of the garden as well. * Water herbs twice a week to about 12 inches. August die-off is common in some perennial herbs of Mediterranean origin so do not over water. * Continue planting native or desert-adapted plants. Stingers and Biters Scorpions and black widow spiders are active during hot summer nights. Both are effective predators of other insects. Black widows can be seen at night with a flashlight; scorpions fluoresce under ultraviolet light. Although the sting of a scorpion is painful, it is generally not life-threatening. One species of scorpion is potentially dangerous - the bark scorpion. If you believe you have been stung by a bark scorpion, call your local Poison Control Center (1-800-362-0101). July 2004 Burrowing Animals How can we tell just what animal is digging holes in our gardens and the desert around us? Many animals, especially small mammals but also insects and birds, burrow under trees, on rocky slopes, in flower pots and even out in the open. You may never see them digging but the evidence is hard to miss. The size of the hole, its location and the presence of trails, mounds of dirt, and remnants of food are clues to the inhabitant. Ground Squirrels Harris antelope squirrels dig holes two inches in diameter, usually in sheltered spots near the base of a cactus or rocks. They are bushy-tailed with a white stripe on their side and are seen scampering about during the day. They are active throughout the year and may cool off in the burrow in the summer between foraging expeditions. Another squirrel which may be the culprit is the round-tailed ground squirrel. They live out in the open like prairie dogs. They dig fan-shaped mounds of dirt which may lead to extensive tunnel networks and nest chambers three feet deep. They are active mainly in the morning and late afternoon. They both hibernate and spend the summer in their burrows. Mice Mice make tiny one-inch diameter holes. These include: Cactus mice, which nest in wood piles and rocky places. Bailey's pocket mouse, found in flat open places with creosote and sparse grasses and on slopes at the bases of desert mountains where palo verde and ocotillo grow. They feed on seeds of various cacti, grasses and other plants and are active all year. They are unique in that they can eat jojoba nuts, which are toxic to other mice. House mice make smaller holes of less than one inch and are usually found in and around houses and buildings. Bumblebees use mouse holes for their colonies. Rock squirrels make four-inch holes and nest in banks, rocky outcroppings, and possibly tree roots. Besides these small mammals, a number of insects make holes. Insects Solitary digger bees dig tiny holes and make small mud chimneys to prevent a parasitic fly from planting an egg in the hole so the fly larvae can feed on the bee larvae. The tarantula, the largest spider in the United States, makes a 1- to 1 1/2-inch hole leading to a 12-inch tunnel. The adult may live there for years and wait near the opening at night to catch its dinner. The males travel to look for mates; the females typically stay at home. You may see a quarter-sized hole at the base of your palo verde. That's the exit hole for the palo verde root borer. The female lays eggs at the base of the tree and the larvae burrow down to feed on the roots. After several years of feasting, five-inch grubs pupate and emerge as three-inch shiny black beetles, to mate and start the process all over again. The adult beetle emerges during the summer months and only live for about a month to six weeks. They are commonly seen flying about on rainy season nights but are poor fliers and often crash into things. They can defend themselves with a powerful bite. Monsoon Time July and August are considered the "wet summer" months here in the desert. Soon drenching monsoon rains will occur from storms that bring much-needed moisture to the desert. "Monsoon" is an Arabic word meaning "a change in the wind direction." The wind patterns here change from blowing from the northwest to blowing from the southeast and bring with them moisture from the Gulf of Mexico. These rains occur when water is most needed by plants, animals and people. In some native cultures the new year begins with the monsoon season when the life-giving rains sprout seeds of crops, cactus, palo verde and mesquite and renew life from the parched "dry summer." Wet summer brings its own natural activities such as the eerie nighttime bleating of toads at the pond as they emerge from moist mud seeking a mate. These facts about the monsoon season were discussed in a recent issue of Sonoran Quarterly, a publication for members of the Desert Botanical Garden. June 2004 Quail On the Run Gambel's Quail can be seen all over Bellasera. They are charming little birds that will fly short distances, especially if disturbed, but they primarily live and nest on the ground. They are remarkably adapted to desert living and are native only to the Sonoran Desert. They eat a wide variety of tiny seeds, small insects and an enormous variety of small green plants. Most of their water intake is from the plants that they eat, but if a source of water is nearby they will also drink from that. They usually make their nests on the ground, under plants such as Bougainvillea, cacti, rosemary, ferns, ivy or any other plant that offers shelter and privacy. But you may find them disturbing the dirt in your flower pots to lay their eggs. A quail hen will lay between 8 to 20 eggs before she starts to incubate them. She will then sit on the nest for 21 days, and they will all hatch within several hours. You may see families of quail with mom in the lead, followed by some barely inch-tall fuzzy buff and brown striped chicks, then the dad, who will be chattering away giving orders. Sometimes an egg or two doesn't hatch with the rest of them, but may hatch from the summer heat several hours or even days after the rest of the family has left the nest. This is the point at which the chick can be taken to a re-habilitator with good results. The hard fact is that not many of these chicks will survive. The quail chicks have many predators including road runners, woodpeckers, grackles and javelina. Even ants will kill and consume them. And then there's the danger from the human factor - the stress from being disturbed by people. Occasionally the parents choose a nest site that is dangerous or even fatal to the newly hatched chicks. Adult quail can fly to safety to find food and water, but newly hatched chicks are confined to the ground for the first three weeks. Remember that these little fluff balls are up and running as soon as their fluff dries. It is best to leave a nest undisturbed. Put out some "Game bird Starter" which is a very fine mash. This is available from a feed store or wild bird store. You should also provide very shallow containers, such as jar lids, so the family can have water available. During spring and summer you may find some quail chicks that need help to survive. The wildlife rehabilitation volunteers will help you. Catch the chicks before you call them. Baby quail without their parents will not survive. They will get cold, starve, or be killed by predators. Put them in a warm dry towel and call the number below. If you turn the chicks loose with quail other than their parents they will be pecked and chased away and will not survive. Resist the temptation to try to raise them yourself. Keep the chick warm and dry and don't try to water or feed it until you talk to a re-habilitator. Don't let people handle them or play with them. There are only temporary measures until you can reach help. Call ARIZONA COVEY at (602) 996-1934. Jeani Garrett is the Director and Volunteer Quail Re-habilitator for the Covey. If she has not returned your call within an hour, call one of the following drop-off locations: WILD BIRD CENTER - (480) 922-4910, or WILD AT HEART - (480) 595-5047. Nights and weekends, call the Paradise Valley Emergency Animal Clinic - (480) 991-1845. Garden Chores *Remember to adjust settings on automatic watering systems as temperatures rise and plants require more water. *Clean up leftover winter annuals. *Hose off roses early in the morning to control spider mites and aphids and reduce the amount or fertilizer to minimize growth during the summer. *Provide shade cloth for tomatoes to encourage a longer production season. Remember that they will not set fruit once the daytime temperature is above 90 degrees. *Apply a pre-emergent herbicide to control summer weeds. *Native and imported heat-tolerant plants can be planted right through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall. May 2004 Water Requirements The average rainfall in the desert in May is a mere 0.1 inches while the temperature will average 94 degrees; therefore ,watering is of prime importance. Avoid using overhead sprinklers when possible. Even though they mimic natural rainfall, they also cause several problems. Many fungal and bacterial diseases are spread by water splashes. In addition, our salty, alkaline water will bead on leaves and quickly evaporate, leaving behind salts which can burn sensitive plants. The best time to water is early in the morning before the sun is too intense. If you have roses with aphids on them, this is the time to wash off the aphids with a strong stream of water every morning before the sun gets too hot. Check It Out May is a good time to check your irrigation system. Turn the system on and examine drip emitters and sprinkler heads to be sure that they are not clogged. Be sure that the watering system reaches out to the drip line of plants. As a general rule irrigation should run slowly, deeply and as infrequently as possible because over-watering is as detrimental as under-watering. Plant roots need oxygen and can rot if water displaces the air pockets in the soil. As temperatures change, adjust your irrigation system's timer accordingly. If you are not sure of how to program your timer, you are not alone. Many people find them a mystery. Ask your landscaper, go to an irrigation supply store or call the timer customer service number and ask for a manual. Pull In Those Hummers If you would like to attract hummingbirds to your backyard, plant a variety of plants that will bloom at different times throughout the year. Summer blooming plants might include bat-faced Cuphea, desert willow, bird of paradise, desert honeysuckle, firebush, golden columbine, red fairy dusters, Ruellia and Salvia. Fall blooming plants might include Baja fairy duster, Mexican bush sage, red justicia, ruellia, trailing lantana, Texas sage and verbena. Winter bloomers are acacia, aloe, cascolote, chuperosa, hummingbird trumpet and salvia greggii. Look in the garden center for plants which are labeled as attractive to hummingbirds. Prune desert legumes such as palo verde and mesquite lightly to remove dead limbs and small crossing branches this month. Delay hard pruning until later in the summer, as early summer pruning in these species encourages a heavy regrowth. Contain Those Geraniums Most of us like that bright red splash that geraniums can give to the landscaping, but remember that they should only be grown in containers here in Bellasera. They can also be difficult to bring through our hot summers. As the heat increases the leaves will begin to yellow, dry, and fall off. Many gardeners simply use them as seasonal annuals, then relegate them to the compost pile. Here are some tips if you wish to bring them through the summer. 1. As they lose their leaves, cut back on watering and allow the plant to go dormant. 2. Move the containers into the shade for the summer. 3. Water enough only to keep the stem tips from wilting; if you are uncertain, do not water. 4. When the weather begins to cool in September, cut back all dead or damaged stems. At the first sign of leaves sprouting, begin to water regularly. Once the plant is fully leafed out, fertilize it lightly. When you have them blooming again, remember to remove the faded flowers so that more flowers will appear. They will easily snap off where the stem is attached to the main stem. April 2004 Spring in the Desert Now is the time to cut back those plants that have looked so awful since that bad frost this last winter. Most can be cut back about half the length of the branch. When you cut back branches, those that are still alive will be slightly green and firm; dead branches are gray and snap off when cut. Those of us who garden in the valley often hear that our soil contains caliche. Caliche is a deposit of calcium carbonate (lime) that lies at or below the soil surface. Caliche looks like - and can be as impenetrable as -concrete. Roots cannot penetrate the hard layer of caliche and water cannot drain through it. If the layer is thin, you can probably break through it with a shovel before planting. To improve the soil, dig up the area to depth of 18 inches and thoroughly mix in organic matter. An underground drainage system may be necessary if you have your heart set on planting in a caliche area in your yard. A landscape architect can design such a system for you. It is a job for a professional. A Good Month to Plant April is one of the most desirable months for planting everything from annuals, vegetables and herbs to low- water-use desert plants, citrus and tropicals. If you have severe soil conditions, evidenced by rock hard ground, low productivity and chlorotic or yellow looking plants, it's a good idea to start with a soil test. Local garden centers can do them for you, but call first. This test will give you data and recommendations as to the amounts of amendments needed for optimal production. Usually soil preparation involves the adjustment of the pH level through acidification; increasing organic levels through mulching; and increasing major and minor nutrient levels through fertilization. As the weather warms up the insect population increases. Aphids love to feast on our leafy vegetables such as spinach and annuals such as snapdragons. Neem-oil-based insecticides are the best of the organic insecticides. The best defense against aphids is a strong stream of water applied every day until they don't come back anymore. Herbs Basil, thyme, oregano, fennel, dill, parsley and mint are only a few of the herbs that can be planted at this time. 'Siam Queen', an anise-flavored basil, and 'Dani Lemon' are great gourmet basil varieties. Monitor plants as the weather warms up and increase watering as needed. Water slowly, deeply and infrequently to the canopy of the tree (the drip line). Let wildflowers in your yard to go to seed. They will self-sow and come up again next year, or collect the seed in another area of your yard and sow it in your landscape in October. Fertilize citrus in April with one-third of the tree's annual nitrogen requirement. Follow package directions and water thoroughly before and after applying to prevent fertilizer burn. Newly planted citrus trees generally need no fertilizer for the first year. Keep 'em Separate Do not put your succulents and cacti on the same line of an automated watering system as trees, shrubs, perennials or lawns. The long interval between watering so beneficial for succulents is detrimental to non-succulents while the amount and frequency of watering for herbaceous and woody plants is lethal for most succulents. If you want to put succulents on an automatic watering system, dedicate one station entirely to these plants. In my garden most cacti and succulents are not on the watering system and thrive well on the water Mother Nature provides unless I see that they are stressed. If I see that, I get out the garden house and soak the area. Ocotillo - Dead or Alive? It is often difficult to tell if an ocotillo is alive or not when there are no leaves. Here are a couple of ways to know: 1.) Take the end of the cane and pull it gently toward the ground. If it bends, it is still alive. If it snaps it is dead. 2.) Look carefully at the stem around the thorn. Surrounding the thorn is a diamond-shaped area that often has tan or whitish bark that peels away. Beneath that bark the stem should be green or yellow-green. If it is dark gray, the cane is dead. Always prune dead canes as far back as you can to prevent unsightly stumps and spindly branching regrowth. March 2004 Frost Damage The last frost date for the valley is usually around March 15. Wait to prune frost-damaged plants and tender tropicals such as Bougainvillea, Hibiscus and natal plum until after mid month when new growth begins to leaf out. It's a great time to plant cacti, aloes, agaves, citrus, roses, trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, ornamental grasses, and warm-season vegetables. Visit local botanical and xeriscape gardens to see what the mature plants will look like. Nurseries will be crowded this month with lots of gardeners looking for the best plants. Plan to get there early for the best selection and quality of warm-season transplants. (There may still be cool-season annuals for sale but think carefully before you buy them - they will be past their prime and will die when the weather heats up.) It's better to buy only warm-season annuals and the above mentioned plants now. Warm season plants include fast growing species such as Cosmos, Mexican gold poppy, blanket flower, Maximillian sunflower, Arizona poppy, red flax, blue flax, desert bluebell, moss rose, Goodding's verbena, and zinnias in the 'Profusion' series. Watering Annuals Maintain deep regular watering on established cool-season annuals as they finish out their life span. This is particularly important if you are saving seed from the plants. Water all annuals deeply and more frequently as the weather heats up. Newly planted transplants need to be watered to a depth of 4 to 6 inches, which is usually every three to four days, but it is best to use a soil probe or rod to be certain. Improve the soil in your vegetable and flower beds before planting. Spread 4 to 6 inches of compost on the top of the soil. If you do not have a compost pile of your own, compost is available at garden centers and places like Lowe's and Home Depot. Add a nitrogen and phosphorous fertilizer. Desert soils contain plenty of potassium, so it isn't required, however a fertilizer that contains potassium will do no harm. If you have heavy clay soil, add soil sulfur or gypsum to improve drainage. Follow package instructions for fertilizer and soil amendments. Dig everything in 12 to 18 inches. Wildflower Hot Lines Some local gardens or parks offer their own wildflower hot lines for daily updates. The Desert Botanical Garden's hot line, listing wildflower sightings around Arizona, is available in March through April. Call 480-481-8134 for the latest news. Online sites such as the Wildflower Watch at desertusa.com/wildflo/wildupdates.html, also are helpful. Even if rains weren't plentiful this season, consider driving to such scenic sites as Saguaro National Park (Tucson), Lost Dutchman State Park (Apache Junction), and Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument (Ajo), where wildflowers grow among unique cacti. February 2004 More Winter Information Do not be alarmed by yellow leaves on citrus at this time of year. This is just normal winter leaf loss that all citrus experience. Continue to cover trees if there is a late freeze. Prune citrus only after all danger of frost is past. Begin by cutting out any dead or winter-damaged branches, water-sprouts (long, green branches), and suckers. Prune the tree so that the branches fall nearly to the ground and it is growing as a large rounded shrub rather than a high-canopy tree. The branches will work to protect the tender bark. I grow dwarf citrus here in Bellasera and even though they are dwarfs, the fruit is normal size and quite tasty. It's fun to go out in the garden in the morning and pick some fruit for breakfast. Attracting Hummingbirds If you wish to attract hummingbirds to your yard, choose plants that provide food throughout the year. Some suggestions are: Justicias, including the winter-flowering J. chuparosa and J. sonorrae, and the year-round flowers of red justicia. Autumn sage, which blooms in the spring and again in fall. Its relative, red sage, blooms year-round in our area also. Mexican oregano (Poliomintha maderensis), which blooms in the late spring through early summer. Even thought the flowers are lavender and hummingbirds prefer red flowers, they will feed regularly on this plant. Penstemons of any type are great favorites. In our area, look for P It is not necessary to put up a hummingbird feeder, but it is fun to see them feed there. You will notice the same hummingbirds visiting your feeder or garden. They are territorial and occasionally get into squabbles about whose feeder it is. Pruning Perennials Once all danger of frost is past, cut back perennials that have extensive frost damage or are leggy and overgrown. Cut them back to 6 inches or less from the ground. Water well after pruning but do not fertilize until they are actively growing again. Plants like chuparosa, California fuchsia, blanket flower, red justicia and ruellia will respond well to a hard prune at this time. Do not prune any spring flowering perennials. Watch for aphids on growing tips and flower buds of winter-growing perennials. These tiny insects can quickly become an infestation; control by hand removal or wash them off the stem with a strong jet of water. February is a transition month for Sonoran desert gardeners. Cool-season plants will be thriving and can still be planted, but it's also time to prepare beds for warmer temperatures and perhaps even transplant some warm-season annuals. At the very least it's time to talk tomatoes. Tomato Time Gardeners who moved here from other parts of the country sometimes decide to plant their tomatoes the same time as they did before they moved here. This will quickly turn into a disaster as the plants will not have enough time to establish themselves before summer and they can turn quite crispy within a few days. Tomatoes will grow quite well in the Valley but they need to be transplanted early enough to develop root systems, flower, and set fruit before the hot weather arrives. When temperatures reach about 90 degrees, tomato pollen is no longer viable and fruit set will stop. This means the time to transplant tomatoes is mid-February to mid-March. If you choose to plant before mid-March you will need to provide protection from cold temperatures by draping burlap fabric, bed sheets or frost cloth over the plant. January 2004 Winter Yard Care Water citrus and landscape plants deeply through the root zone once every three to four weeks unless winter rains are adequate. Winter lawns and annual flowers may require watering one or two times a week, depending on the weather and their location. Do not water succulents unless they show signs of stress such as shriveling or puckering. Water stored in their stems or leaves may freeze and destroy cells. Provide freeze protection for citrus, succulents and landscape plants if temperature is expected to be in the 20s or lower for more than an hour. Do not use plastic; bed sheets will work well or use fabric available at garden centers designed specifically for that purpose. Harvest ripe citrus, including grapefruit, oranges, mandarins, tangelos, lemons, kumquats, and limequats. All navel oranges should be picked by the end of January. Your citrus are ripe if they yield to gentle pressure and come easily off the stem. A taste test is the best test. The longer the fruit stays on the tree, the sweeter it becomes. If the weather stays cold , rinds may remain green, but the fruit can still be sweet. Fertilize citrus in late January or February with one-third of its annual nitrogen requirements. (Another one-third will be applied in April/May and the final third in August/September.) The amount depends on the tree's size and how many years it has been in the ground. Read directions on the product label. Water thoroughly before and after applying fertilizer. Leaf drop on citrus is normal in late winter/early spring as new leaves push out. Heavy leaf drop may be due to over fertilization, watering too much or not enough, or citrus mesophyll collapse, which occurs when there are unseasonably hot or cold weather changes. Limited pruning is done on citrus at this time of the year to remove dead wood and to shape the tree. Harvest fruit so that most of the fruit is off the tree before buds set for this year's crop. It is time to plant bare root and containerized roses, deciduous fruit trees and shade trees. Prune desert trees, fruit trees and shade trees. As rainfall here occurs primarily in winter and early spring months, it is appropriate to apply pre-emergent weed control to prevent germination of weeds. Water to a depth of one inch to activate. Once watered in, these products are safe around pets and children. Annual and perennial flowers can still be planted from seedlings or seeds. The best for our area are petunias, snapdragons, stock, alyssum, pansies, calendulas, dianthus, lobelia and flowering kale. Soil preparation is the key. Adjust the pH to 6.5 by using a pre-plant high phosphate fertilizer such as 6-20-20 or a slow release fertilizer such as Flower Power 14-12-14. Annual flowers prefer flood irrigation rather than overhead sprinkling. To encourage new growth and branching, periodically harvest flowers. December 2003 Frost Bite Occasionally here in the desert we get frost. Plants indigenous to the desert are fairly immune to short term frost damage, but some of our desert-adapted plants may need help to survive even a light frost. Saguaros that are already stressed from drought or from recent transplanting are likely to be damaged by freezing temperatures, but this damage won't show up until warm weather returns. Desert natives such as organ pipe cacti, totem pole or cereus may need frost protection on their tender growing tips. Buy some Styrofoam drinking cups and place them over the tips of their arms and main stem. Century plants and aloes also need protection. They may be covered with a breathable fabric which is available at local nurseries. Those plants which we love to grow but are not native to the Sonoran desert need protection from freezing. These include Bougainvillea, lantana, and hibiscus. They may get a lot of frost damage to their leaves but will recover nicely when growth begins again in the spring. You do need to guard against stem damage if it gets and stays below freezing. Cover them before evening darkness settle in on the nights when freezing temperatures are expected. Frost tender plants in pots should be moved to a protected site such as a courtyard or under a tree. Another alternative would be to cover them where they are with breathable fabric. Succulents and cacti should not be watered before a freeze. If a freeze occurs soon after watering, the water inside the cells freezes and expands, causing structural damage to the cells. Frost damage to cacti and succulents will show up in about a week, appearing as lesions or sunburn. No repair is recommended. Just remember to cover them again should a frost threaten. Frost damage can be the entry point for bacterial rot. If the damaged area is increasing in size it's likely that bacterial rot has begun and you will need to take steps to save the plant. Cut out the rotting tissue, wipe the wound with diluted bleach water and then let the sun heal the wound. Watering woody plants such as citrus is a recommended way to help them through freezing nights. How often have we seen pictures of orange groves in Florida and California with leaves covered in ice to help prevent frost damage ? But this is usually not necessary here in the desert. Watering the tree wells or soaking the ground around the plants actually gives off enough heat to prevent damage at least through two or three consecutive nights of freezing weather. If your leafy plants have a little frost damage, don't be in a hurry to prune off the damage. Unless it is absolutely necessary to remove the frost-scorched leaves and stems, leave them unpruned until spring. NEVER use plastic to cover plants as it conducts cold and will promote freezing wherever it touches a plant. Invest in some breathable fabric from a nursery, often called frost cloth, or use sheets and pillow cases. Newspaper is also a good insulator, but it does have a tendency to blow away. A small plant can be covered with a paper grocery bag. All of these coverings need to be removed early the next day to let your plant revive with fresh air and sunlight. Cold - but not freezing - nights can be a good thing for frost-sensitive plants. A few chilly nights slow down the plants' metabolism and hardens them against light frosts. The worst frost damage happens during that cold night out of the blue when the plants are still growing. The damage from a 29-degree frost when plants are actively growing is worse than when the same temperatures hit the same non-growing plant. November 2003 Cool Stuff Water requirements decrease for established landscape plants in November as the temperatures cool and days become shorter. Dormancy helps plants resist freezing and cutting back on watering induces dormancy during the winter months. Plants should not be fertilized during the winter as fertilizer adds nutrients that may encourage new growth which is extra tender and susceptible to frost damage. Reduce your watering schedule by cutting back on frequency, but continue slow, deep watering past the root zone. It is important for trees to receive water beyond the leaf canopy. This is where the tree develops new root tips which absorbs nutrients. If you are watering only around the base of the tree , the growing tree is not being watered effectively. You can start harvesting many kinds of citrus this month, keeping in mind that the longer the fruit stays on the tree the sweeter it becomes. Try tasting naval and sweet oranges, tangerines, lemons, limes and kumquats. Most grapefruit are just coming into flavor this month but will taster sweeter if picked and enjoyed in the spring. Cool season annuals like pansies and violas, primula, snapdragons, Iceland poppies, calendula and cyclamen can be planted at this time. If you plant some bulbs around Halloween, Thanksgiving, and New Year's you will have bulb color for many months. Plant and Divide Perennials November is the time to plant hardy perennials like candytuft, campanula, columbine, coral bells, delphinium and foxglove so there will be enough root growth for good spring flower show. Existing perennials can be cut back almost to the ground. It's time to divide perennials if you haven't done so in the last three years. Divide and replant crowded plants while adding plenty of compost to improve drainage. Perennials are plants with widely varying habits of growth but all have at least one thing in common with all the others, namely they live for at least 2 years in contrast to annuals which complete their life cycle in one year. Some perennials die down to the ground for the winter months and reappear in the spring; others go through the winter as low tufts of leaves ready to grow when the weather warms up in the spring. A third type of perennial is truly evergreen, with its foliage persisting almost unchanged throughout the winter months. Yucca is a good example of this. This is a good time to prune many desert plants. Thin and prune wild growth from such plants as cassias, pittosporum, Texas sage and Mexican bird of paradise, creating the shape you want as you work. Note however, that desert plants look more natural when NOT sheared into shapes such as boxes or gum balls. Major pruning on large trees should not be done until late December or January when the sap is closer to the roots. Prune ground cover now to avoid excessive growth. Prune and feed your roses by taking out dead, diseased, crossing, and injured canes, and prune for shape. Then apply complete fertilizer, watering it in well to encourage a flush of winter flowers. October 2003 Fall Planting Agaves and yuccas are outstanding desert ornamentals the fit well into our gardens here in Bellasera. There are dozens of species available; the following are some of the best. Agave paryi has tight regular rosettes and the leaves have a blue-green cast. It blooms with reddish orange buds which open to bright yellow. It blooms after it is about 25 years old and then dies. New plants already formed on the root system will then take over. Agave vilmoriniana is a large plant with leaves that curve gracefully from the base. Agave attenuata is a delicate plant with a long white stem and wide pale-green leaves without teeth or spines. Yucca recurvifolia is native to the eastern United States, but has acclimated perfectly to growing in the desert southwest. The dark green leaves and short size make it useful in a garden of any size. Yucca baccata and Y. elata are native throughout most of this region and will thrive in gardens in the area. Y. baccata is usually a low growing, big headed plant with stiff gray-green leaves, while Y. elata has thin grass-like leaves that are smothered with fine white filaments. Yucca rigida is one of the prettiest of all yuccas. A tall plant with a big head of stiff blue-gray leaves it is a gorgeous specimen in any garden. Best Month to Plant October is the best month to plant agaves and yuccas. The warm days and mild nights allow these plants to become well established before the rigors of their first summer. In addition, plants that establish in the fall have the entire winter to acclimate their leaves to the sun and are much less prone to sunburn. Dig a hole that is just deep enough to accommodate the root systems and three to five times wider than the container. Soil amendments and other additives are not necessary. Be sure to place the crowns of the agaves well above the soil line. Pups of agave can be potted up this month. Do not remove yucca offsets during cool weather. Ready Christmas Cactus for Bloom If you have Christmas cactus and would like to encourage them to bloom at Christmas, put them in a location that is cool at night - 55 degrees to 65 degrees is ideal. They should be placed where they are completely in the dark for 12 to 14 hours. If it doesn't get too cold out of doors, that may be the ideal spot to put them. Water them regularly but allow them to dry out slightly between waterings. Buds should form in four to six weeks. Fertilize Container Succulents Any container-grown winter-growing succulents can be fertilized monthly starting this month. Use a soluble fertilizer at 1/4 to 1/2 the strength that is recommended for house plants. Do not fertilize plants in the ground this month. Do not prune warm-season succulents this month; remove spent flowers at any time. Continue to monitor cactus for cochineal scale, the insect hidden beneath white cottony fuzz on the plants. The best remedy is a strong jet of water, but you must be vigilant and repeat until all of the insects are gone. You will most likely not see any insects moving on the plant. These insects attach themselves to the plant and suck its juices which can eventually kill the plant. September 2003 Irrigation System Irrigation controllers can be a mystery to many homeowners, and for efficient watering you can't just set it and forget it. You need to change the watering frequency as plants become established, as seasons change, or if it rains. STATION, VALVE and ZONE are terms that are commonly used when discussing timers. A STATION is a term used by many controllers to indicate what valve it is controlling. A VALVE is the device that accepts the signal from the timer to open and allow the water to flow. A ZONE is the area of the yard (or the group of plants) that is watered by a valve. At the programmed time, the controller gets a message to turn on a station and sends a signal through the wires to open the corresponding valve to let water flow through the pipes to irrigate the zone it controls. To enter a program, use the basic instructions printed inside the controller door. You may need to make sure that your timer is in the 'set programs' mode before you begin. Information Needed Four pieces of information need to be entered and maintained: 1. CURRENT DAY AND TIME. Set the time much like you do a digital clock, making sure that you enter whether it is a.m. or p.m. 2. WATERING DAYS OR FREQUENCY. You can set your controller to water on a certain day or days of the week. Or, if your controller has a "skip day" option, you can set a certain frequency by inputting "days between watering" or "skip days." For example, if you input the number 10 under the skip day option, your controller would turn on 10 days after the last watering. 3. START TIMES. Once the controller knows what day to water, it needs to know what time to start the watering. On most controllers, one start time will run all of the stations assigned to that program in sequence. Think of it as a start time for the entire program, not a station or valve start. 4. LENGTH OF TIME TO WATER. After the controller knows what days and what time to begin, it needs to know how long to run before turning off. Run times can vary from 10 minutes to 6 hours. Double-check your entries to make sure that they are correct. You can run a program test by pressing the semi-automatic button if your controller has this option. This will run the program immediately, then not water again until the programmed time and days. Some controllers also have a 'review' option that shows all your programmed input. If you have MULTIPLE PROGRAM CAPABILITY you will see a switch that allows you to set the timer on program A, B, C, or 1, 2, 3, etc. Multiple programs allow you to run different schedules on different programs. Each program will need the frequency, start time, run time and information on the station or stations to operate. Additional Hints If it rains more than 1 inch you can use the "off" or "rain" setting to stop the watering cycle without disturbing your programs. Once the soil dries up, simply switch back to 'on' to go back to the scheduled programs. If your system has backup battery capability, replace the battery once each year to make sure you maintain your programs during power outages. If you turn the program on "manual," you can leave it on for specified times to water your plants or to check your emitters. You can also leave the timer in the "off" mode and just turn the valves manually through the timer when you see it's necessary. Instructions Misplaced? If you don't have instructions for your timer, write down the make and model and call your home and garden center or irrigation supply store to see if they can assist you with getting a toll-free phone number for technical support from the manufacturer. You might also be able to find instructions or more information on the Internet. August 2003 Summer Pruning and Planting MESQUITE TREES are prone to blowing over during the strong winds of our monsoon season. This is caused by improper watering which causes the roots to develop close to the trunk. If there is a large canopy of lush foliage the tree can become top-heavy and can blow over due to the combination of strong winds and saturated soil. The key to preventing a weak root system is to widen the tree's watering perimeter. This is especially true of mesquite trees. Place the irrigation lines under the drip line of the tree (the outer edge of the foliage) to attract the roots away from the trunk. If the tree sits in a retention basin and rain provides adequate water, emitters should be turned off. To keep the tree in good proportion, trim the branches if they become too long or develop too much in one direction. Limbs can be prevented from breaking. They should be thinned with a long-handled lopper or with a pole pruner. Remove crooked or curved limbs up to about one-third of the interior foliage and also remove cross branches. Balance the tree's weight as you thin. A tree leaning in one direction leans to the heavy side, so as you remove weight and density on that side, the tree will straighten. Plant 'Em Now August is a great time to plant DESERT-ADAPTED PLANTS because they thrive in the heat. The growing season for desert vegetation is during the warm months. Their dormant period is when the weather cools down. Mesquite, acacia, palo verde, and sage will do well when planted now - as long as they receive supplemental water. Be sure that the plants that you buy are Arizona-grown. Plants grown in a climate-controlled greenhouse do not adapt as well as those grown outside right here in Arizona. They will have the same climatic conditions as your yard and have a much better chance of acclimating to their new surroundings. Fertilize Citrus Trees Apply a complete citrus fertilizer this month, following the label directions. Thoroughly soak the soil before you apply the fertilizer and water immediately afterward. This late summer feeding is particularly essential for navel oranges and tangerines. Recycle Now is the time to recycle all the dried and dying remnants of your vegetable and flower gardens. Chop or break these dried brown materials into small pieces and layer them to compost with fresh green grass, coffee grounds, or manure. If you do not have grass clippings available, you can use any green leaves from plants or vegetables in your kitchen. The general proportion for making compost is two-thirds brown and one-third green. Moisten each layer as you go. Once these material are composted, they will provide an incredible boost to the soil fertility of next season's garden. Add to Your Cactus Collection PRICKLY PEAR CACTI are especially easy to propagate by cuttings, which are best done at the cactus' time of growth - spring through late summer. The tricky part is how to handle the pads, which in some species can look totally free of glochids (the tiny, barely visible thorns that cause great itching and sensitivity when embedded in the skin). Don't believe your eyes, they are there waiting to hurt you. Wear leather gloves and use tongs or strips of folded newspaper to handle pads. If you collect glochids in your skin, scrape them away with a credit card. In order to start new prickly pear cacti, remove a pad or cluster of pads at the joint where it is attached to the plant with a clean cut. Then let the pad rest for a few days in the shade of a patio or under a tree while the cut calluses over. This self-healing process prevents the entry of bacteria which might cause death or disease to your new plant. The plant from which you took the cutting will heal in the same manner at the same time. The callus is a dry, brown skin which forms over the area separated from the main plant. The length of time to make the callus varies according to the size of the callus. When the cut has calloused, plant the pad in well-draining sandy soil by burying the bottom third in the ground. Let the soil continue the drying and healing process for a couple of days before watering the pad, then water weekly for about a month if we don't get rain. Taper the watering down to one a month through the winter. Continue monthly waterings through the first July 2003 Summer Watering When we have monsoon rains in the summer, which come in different amounts in different areas we may think that a lot of water has fallen on our garden and cut back on the weekly amount of irrigation. We should do this if there is significant rain in the garden. But very often vegetable gardens, lawns, small shrubs and flower beds may get enough water while the trees will need more water than Mother Nature has provided. Water does not penetrate deeply into soil in the valley. One inch of water moves about 6 to 8 inches into the soil. Trees should be deep watered to about 3 feet so you can see that the trees are not getting enough water from a light rain. Rainwater does a good job of wetting the root zone of smaller plants but it is not always enough to wet the root zone of larger plants. Open Pores Rainstorms and the water that they bring clean the air, wash the grime and dust off the leaves, give us a temporary break from the sun and heat and supply some nitrogen for plants. Rain can also trigger a reaction in plants to literally open up their pores to get more water. This actually increases the plants demand for water. If the storm that causes this reaction does not give enough water to supply the demand, some plants can actually wilt. Light rains can cause more salt damage to plant roots. Rainwater is similar to distilled water. It is purer than the water we normally use to water our plants. The problem is that distilled water dilutes the salt in our soil quicker than tap water, which is already salty to some extent. One inch or less of rainwater can dissolve much of the excess salt in the soil and create a saltier solution than before. These salts can settle at the roots of plants and also seal up the surface of the soil. A more substantial rain, say two to three inches, leaches these suspended salts deeper into the soil beyond the root zone. Measure The best method for determining how deeply the water has penetrated is to poke a steel rod into the soil until it doesn't go further down. This will indicate how deeply the water has penetrated. A general rule of thumb is: for perennials, the rod should go down 1 foot; for small shrubs, 2 feet, and for trees, 3 feet. During hot weather you may need to irrigate within the following ranges, depending on soil depth texture and rainfall: Grass every 5-10 days Shrubs every 5-10 days Flowers every 3-6 days Trees every 10-15 days. Monitor Monitor the water needs of all of your plants. Look for signs of stress such as wilting, wrinkling or yellowing. Adjust automatic irrigation systems if rains are heavy, both to conserve water and to prevent plant roots from becoming waterlogged. In addition to water, roots need oxygen to thrive. If the soil is too wet, the roots will rot as the soil will be saturated with water and there will not be any oxygen available for the roots. June 2003 Bird of Paradise We will soon be treated to the flowers of the Red Bird-of-Paradise (Caesalpinia pulcherrima) with huge clusters of flowers above bright green, fernlike foliage. The vibrant blossoms are orange tinged with yellow and red and convey the feeling of heat. Barbados Pride is another common name for this 6-foot high, 8-foot wide shrub - a reference to its origin in the West Indies. Some plant books say that it comes from Mexico because it has become naturalized there. The Bird-of-Paradise is used extensively because it fits in a tropical-looking landscape accompanied by Bougainvillea and palm trees, as well as in a desert landscape, where its companions may be creosote bush (Larrea tridentata), brittlebush (Encelia farinosa), and golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii). The Bird-of-Paradise has one vulnerability: It does not thrive if the weather gets cold. Cool weather brings a bronze cast to the foliage, and when temperatures drop to the upper 20s it freezes to the ground. It Can Be Pruned Severely You can replicate nature's pruning by cutting the plant back severely in late winter. As warmer weather returns, the foliage and flowers also return and the plant once more becomes one of the most popular and beautiful shrubs we have here. Texas Ranger (Leucophyllum frutescens) is another plant which is un-fazed by the heat. When the humidity climbs during monsoon season, this variety of sage can be counted upon to burst into purple blooms within a few days, the reason it is often called Barometer Bush. Gardening Tips Adjust settings on automatic watering systems as temperatures rise and plants require more water. Clean up leftover winter annuals. Harvest onions and garlic as their tops begin to brown. Hose off roses early in the morning to control spider mites and aphids and reduce the amount or fertilizer to minimize growth during the summer. Provide shade cloth for tomatoes to encourage a longer production season. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide to control summer weeds. Native and imported heat-tolerant plants can be planted through the summer months. They will need to be watered on a regular basis until fall. May 2003 Spring Desert Plants With their elegant curving branches and striking appearance, ocotillo (Fourquieia splendens) make wonderful accents in the desert landscape. Drive north up the Beeline Highway (Route 87) and you will see many that are indigenous to the Sonoran desert. In the spring the long, leafy canes of this desert shrub burst forth with bright-orange blooms - favorites of hummingbirds. Ocotillo do not have the ability to store water in their tissues, so during a drought their leaves drop to reduce evaporation. The thorny canes turn gray, giving the impression that they have dried up and died. Once watered, it takes only a day or two for new leaves to appear. Ocotillo prefer full sun and good drainage. Water transplants weekly. Once the shrub is established, supplemental watering will help the leaves stay green. Be careful not to overwater, as they are prone to root rot in heavy soils. New plants can be started by simply placing a piece of an ocotillo branch into the ground and watering. Often you will see fences made in this fashion. They are very effective as a barrier because of their thorns. Night Garden If you like to sit out in your yard in the evening, create a night garden in your yard. Our perception of color changes when the sun goes down. Red and orange tend to look gray or black at night, but white, pale yellow, blue or violet seem to glow come twilight. Surrounding tall flowers with short, light-toned foliage will allow plants to play off each other. Some plants to think about are dusty miller (silver-leafed foliage), evening primrose, (yellow or white flowers) lobelia (electric-blue blossoms), morning glory (violet blooms) and sweet alyssum (masses of small white blooms). Our sense of smell becomes more sensitive in the evening garden too, so look for plants with pleasant fragrance. Check Irrigation System Make sure your irrigation system is functioning properly now before the weather warms up. Reset timers in increase the frequency as temperatures get hotter. Turn your system on and examine drip emitters. It's likely the emitters will have a white deposit from the minerals in our water; clean that off and be sure the water flows freely. If the drip emitters are still within inches of a tree's trunk after it has been in the ground for a year, the water is not reaching the roots. The emitters need to be regularly moved out just past the edge of the tree's canopy. Picture an imaginary line from the edge of the foliage down to the ground where raindrops would drip off the plant; this is known as the drip line. You may need to add additional emitters or add ones that allow a greater flow rate. Transplant Natives You may transplant native and desert-adapted plants this month. Water deeply and maintain even soil moisture until fall so that the root systems can become established. Fertilize Bermuda grass lawns while actively growing about every six weeks with 1/2 pound of nitrogen and 6 ounces of iron per 1,000 square feet. Water turf deeply and as infrequently as possible. Water should penetrate 8 to 10 inches into the ground and soil should dry out briefly between waterings. It is best to irrigate early in the morning as grass watered late in the day may stay moist overnight allowing fungi to grow. April 2003 National Garden Month April is National Garden Month. There are many annuals in the garden centers so pick a variety of annuals with your favorite colors. Remember that color makes more impact if there are more than one of the same color planted next to each other. If you put your annuals in containers, remember that containers need water every day when the weather turns warm. And be sure that the container has a drain hole or you may drown your plants. Colorful annuals include celosia, coleus, coreopsis, cosmos, dianthus, dusty miller, impatiens, marigold, Mexican sunflower, ornamental peppers, portulaca, purslane, salvia, and zinnia. Palo Verde Time The blue palo verde, Cercidium floridium, is usually the first to bloom in the spring. Beginning in late March and extending into April, the tree displays many golden yellow, slightly fragrant flowers. Its mature height is 15 to 30 feet and growth rate is slow to moderate depending on cultural practices; if you give it the conditions that it prefers, it will grow faster. It is a densely spreading, low branching tree with spiny blue-green twigs and branches. Large older specimens may develop gray bark on the lower trunk. The canopy of rounded leaflets provides filtered shade, but the foliage is shed during dry and cold periods. The foothills palo verde Cercidium microphyllum - which we have here in Bellasera - is a smaller tree and often multi-stemmed with two or more short, thick trunks joined at ground level. The foliage, branches and spine-tipped twigs are yellowish-green. In times of drought or stress the tree sheds its tiny leaflets. During mid to late spring, foothills palo verde has faintly fragrant, pale yellow flowers. When conditions are favorable vast areas of the desert are covered with a mass display of these trees in flower. The seed pod has a sharp beak at its tip, another characteristic that distinguishes this species from others. Weevils and Aphids Spring is the time that the Agave Snout-nosed Weevil emerges from the soil to lay its eggs. If your agave has collapsed into a stinky mess, that insect is most likely the culprit. Remove the dead plant and treat the soil with Orthene to kill any weevil that are in the soil. Do not plant another agave in the area in case you have not eliminated all of the weevils. Check tender new growth on plants for aphid infestation. Spray them off with a jet of water, then follow up with a dose of insecticidal soap. Don't apply the soap when the sun is shining on the plant; it could burn the foliage. When weeds are small, wait until soil is dry, then hoe them out of the ground early in the day. Sun will kill the rootlets by day's end. For larger weeds, water thoroughly, then pop weeds out with a hand weeder, roots and all. If you compost, let weeds dry and die before you compost them, or they might flower and disperse seeds. Fertilize Time to fertilize! Apply about 1 pound of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet of plants. Water the day before you spread the fertilizer and then immediately afterward. Roses, Veggies and Bulbs April is also one of our prime months for roses as this is the month that they burst into peak bloom. Fertilize them by following the directions for the specific rose fertilizer that you buy. Keep mulch several inches from the stem to prevent the spread of disease. You may find the aphids like the taste of your roses. They can be dispatched by hosing off every day for a week or two and then they will disappear. Warm season vegetables such as snap beans, cucumbers, cantaloupe and watermelon can be sown in your vegetable patch. Set out eggplant, okra, squash, and sweet potato any time this month. My place of choice is a raised bed in the sun with drip irrigation. Most vegetables require 6 plus hours of sunlight a day. Plant canna, dahlia, daylily, gladiolus and other March 2003 Frost in Phoenix! Be aware that the last frost date for our area is around March 15. Prune frost tender tropical plants such as Bougainvillea, hibiscus, and natal plum as they begin to leaf out with warmer temperatures. Prune frost damage from perennial herbs. Plant vegetable seeds. Try lima and snap beans, beets, carrots, corn, cucumbers, jicama, okra, green onions, peanuts, pumpkins, radishes, and summer and winter squash. Prickly Pear Problems: A white fuzzy growth that looks like cotton is actually the byproduct of a small cactus-feeding scale insect called cochineal. The actual body of the insect, hidden beneath the fuzz, is a brilliant red which Indians have long collected to make a red dye. If not removed from the cactus, eventually this scale will harm and disfigure it. The first line of defense is to scrape the material from the cactus. If that doesn't work, try to discourage the insect by spraying it with forceful jets of water. The last line of attack is spray with insecticidal soap. (You can make your own by placing 5 Tablespoons of Murphy's Oil Soap in a gallon of water. Do not do this when the sun is shining directly on the plant) Cochineal is generally worse during the warmer months, so get a head start on it this spring. Saguaros may have an oozing rot usually near the base, but it can be seen on the upper part of the cactus also. This is known as bacterial necrosis. The best remedy is to cut out the affected tissue and rinse the wound with a solution of nine parts water to one part household bleach. You could hasten the drying of the wound by dusting it with powdered sulfur which is available in garden centers. A good indication that a cactus is dying is when there is no new growth as winter turns into spring. Some saguaro, though, bloom as they are dying. Growth occurs at the top center of the plant in the form of fresh, colorful shoots. Cactus should be throwing out new green growth in that top center region during the warmer months. If a cactus is not growing but appears to be in good health, the most likely causes are insufficient watering or deteriorated roots. If you have not watered in a while and the soil is bone-dry, try a deep watering first. If you don't see improvement, check the soil for pests. If your cactus is potted, you may want to change the soil to a more porous mixture. Keep in mind that most cacti go through a natural dormancy period during the colder months. If you have been planting the same annual flowers, for instance petunias, in the same spot for two or three years, it is important not to continue planting the same plant in that spot. More than likely, a fungus has invaded the soil if you begin to have trouble. Check the stem of one of the